Those Magnificent Men in Their Flying Machines
Actually, to be fair, I don’t think the blame can be laid entirely at Alitalia’s door on this occasion – Heathrow was in pre-Christmas chaos. When we arrive in the baggage hall at T4 (no, not Terminator; Terminal), it’s piled high with abandoned luggage, as people have given up on their planes being unloaded, and gone home for the night. As one of the few English people on the flight, I’m all set to do the same thing, but the Italians are made of sterner stuff and are busy creating merry hell at the Alitalia desk. At one point, it even looks as if it’s about to turn into a fight, and a member of the airport police is called to defuse the situation. Thrilling!
While the Italians are bellowing, I have a quiet word with one of the ground staff about what is actually going on, and discover that, unless planes have to turn straight round and fly somewhere else, they are considered low priority and probably won’t be unloaded until the following day, when the new baggage staff come on duty. Luckily for me, however, Italians can all shout and gesticulate for – well – Italy. They aren’t going anywhere until they’ve had a good old row about it. The staff at the desk make frantic phone calls. The policeman puffs his chest out and moves people back six inches. Using his best Very Important Voice, he makes an announcement: “Sorry to the ones that can’t speak English, but I can’t speak Italian, so maybe some of you that can speak both can translate: your luggage will be in the hall in 15 minutes!” Somebody – it may be me, but I couldn’t possibly confirm – shouts, “Is that a promise?!” There are titters from the other English-speakers. He rises above it and ignores the heckling, merely gesturing in the direction of the conveyor belt. Sceptically we look and see that, far from there being a 15 minute wait, luggage is arriving now. Hooray! Joyously, we stampede towards our bags and out into the freezing cold sleet of a late-December night in London. I’m home at last.
Fast-forward three weeks, and I’m on my way back from England to Italy. Due to some serious shopping in England, there’s absolutely no way I can travel carry-on only, so once again I reluctantly have to check my luggage in. Being a good girl, I’ve followed airline guidelines and put my laptop and handbag into my hand luggage, which is regulation size. I’ve also packed a couple of pairs of shoes and most of my new books in there, so it’s pretty heavy. In contrast to when I first flew out to Italy, however, when the guy at check-in weighed my bags, lost his eyebrows into his hairline at how heavy they were, but let me take them on board anyway, the po-faced woman at the desk isn’t having any of it. I therefore transfer the shoes and books into my checked bag. Hand luggage still too heavy. Only at this point does she, with barely-concealed disdain, look at the contents of my hand luggage and ask if my handbag is in there. I reply in the affirmative, and also point out the laptop. “Oh, well you’ll have to carry that separately.” Christ. If I’d known that was allowed I’d have done it anyway. It’s a brand new Mac and I don’t need any excuse to clutch it to myself lovingly.
What this means, of course, is that pretty much everything is now in my checked bag. On an Alitalia flight. Which goes to Rome. Rome being the airport where Alitalia luggage goes to die. All I have with me now are electronics, money, and a nagging feeling that this is all going to end very badly …
Why is it …
... that my 5 year olds are utterly scandalised by my shirt coming untucked or me taking my heels off to play football, but think nothing of slapping my arse or grabbing my boobs? Where’s the line, kids?!
No time to write a full post at the moment, but I’m back in Italy and will be getting back up to blogging speed hopefully on Friday. Standby for pithy reportage on playing chess and eating nothing but crackers for 48 hours, as well as news on the way in which Alitalia fully lived up to their reputation and lost my luggage. Yep.
Laters, ‘gators. x
…and a partridge in a pear tree
Well, the final lessons of the year have all been taught. I have sung the 12 Days of Christmas (with actions) far too many times to be good for me (while loving every moment), eaten too many chocolates, and grown thoroughly sick of Jingle Bell Rock (seriously, kids, I’m going to kill you if you put it on AGAIN), but have, despite it all, had a really entertaining couple of days. Christmas should come round more often; it makes for a very relaxed teacher. I feel like I want to write a pithy little summary of my first full term’s teaching, but, to be honest, it will just turn into schmaltz and you’ve heard the most interesting bits of it anyway. Suffice to say that I’ve not only made it through, but also generally had a lot of fun.
Tomorrow morning I am catching a plane from Brindisi to Rome and in the afternoon I shall (weather gods permitting …) fly from Rome to London Heathrow. Fingers crossed Jack Frost doesn’t mess things up, and I make it home for Christmas with my family and friends. Happy Christmas and New Year, everyone, and I look forward to seeing you in 2010. xx
Computer says, “No”
(image by Aaron Escobar on Flickr)
Last week, I attempted to do some Christmas shopping. (Still haven’t managed that, by the way. Nada. Zilch. Niente. Oops.) Anyway, I parked the car in a pay and display bay in town. Reasoning that this is Italy and everyone spends their entire lives sticking it to The Man, I didn’t bother to buy a ticket. Unfortunately, half an hour later, cold and wet, I returned to the car to find a soggy parking ticket slowly melting onto my windscreen. Burn, baby, burn.
As the ticket dried out at home, it became legible, and I realised that the fine was, despite being the maximum, only €5. Score! Comparing this with London, where the discounted early payment fine is usually upwards of £50, I considered myself pretty lucky. However, a chill struck my bones as I realised that there was still the small matter of Italian bureaucracy to deal with …
A few weeks ago I attempted to buy a PAYG mobile. All I wanted was a SIM card that I could slot into my existing phone. Simple, no? Well, no. Even with Alex there to translate, it took a good half hour to sort out. I had to produce both my passport and Codice Fiscale (a bit like our National Insurance number, and without which you are unable to do pretty much anything). These were then photocopied in triplicate, and many complicated instructions issued. Finally, I was deemed able to take the SIM card. However, there was a ridiculous comedy moment when I tried to hand over the required €10. The assistant recoiled as if I had just offered him a handful of poo, rather than perfectly good legal tender. Thinking I had misunderstood his request for the money, I brought my hand back to my side. However, he then repeated that it would be €10. Puzzled, I tried to give him the money again. Again, he pulled back. Belatedly, I realised that he didn’t want the money to be passed hand to hand, but rather for me to place it on the desk. This is a peculiarly delicate Italian habit, and it always confuses me. Inevitably I do the wrong thing and try to put the money on the counter when the cashier is expecting me to hand it to them directly, and vice versa. It’s resulted in a few coins being dropped on the floor, and much embarrassed Itanglish burbling.
Anyway, given my experience with the phone, I feared the worst when it came to paying my parking ticket. Poring painfully over the instructions, I worked out that I had 10 days to pay before they started issuing fines and chasing letters, so decided to leave it until my day off, when I would have all day to sort things out. Envisioning something rather like the Post Office, where you are issued with numbers as you enter, which are then roundly ignored by everyone, I decided to head in early. Also, as I wasn’t quite sure where the place was in town, it would give me plenty of time to get lost.
In the event, I found the office easily. However, the blinds were all pulled down on the windows and the door closed. I checked the opening times again; nope, it SHOULD be open. Not that that necessarily means anything: this is Italy, after all. As I vainly hunted for a doorbell, however, the entry system buzzed and the door popped open. Stepping inside, somewhat nervously, I was faced with one woman on a reception desk. Not what I had expected at all. Offering my best smile, I said, ‘buongiorno‘ and tentatively showed my parking ticket, hoping that she would understand and direct me to the, no doubt hellish, room of shouting Italians in which I should pay. Unsmiling, she tapped something into her computer and gestured for me to hand her the ticket. Still not quite believing that I wasn’t about to be directed to the seventh circle of hell, I passed it over. She typed a few more things into her computer. Then, brusquely, she said, ‘cinque‘. I handed over €10. More tapping. A receipt was printed out, €5 change slapped onto the desk, and that was it. Unbelievable! In and out within 5 minutes, with no call for Italian bargaining, and only €5 down. If only Italian life were like this more often.
It’s all Greek to me
(image by Kate Bailward)
My name is Katja, and living in Italy has turned me into a pretentious twat.
Back in my teenage years, reading all the big travel memoirs (you know the kind of thing – Londoner creative-type becomes bored of London, moves to ruined cottage in France/Spain/Italy, lives an unaccustomed simple life, encounters oh-so-hilarious difficulties along the way, ends up falling in love with the place), I always hated the writers who casually sprinkled their text with foreign words. I imagined the writer feeling superior when first deciding to use that word. Oh, look at me – I know words that you don’t know! But don’t feel bad – it’s just that you’re not as well-travelled and erudite and clever as I am! Ha ha ha!
Of course, now that I am that smug Londoner-turned-Expat, I find myself littering foreign words all over the place, as if this were perfectly normal. I’ll let you into a secret, however: my Italian is abysmal. I mean, really. This is one way of practising without being laughed out of court. You know those double letters that you see all the time in Italian words? Well, they’re enunciated. Penne, if only a single ‘n’ is pronounced, apparently means penis. (At least, I think that’s what he was trying to tell me through his blushes. Yeah, THAT was embarrassing.) Luckily for you, though, you only see the written word and aren’t subjected to my horrible accent. I’m sparing you all, really. Honest.
Writing the words down also means that I can check the meanings before committing myself to paper. Except that I don’t bother, half the time. Not clever, and resulting in hasty edits a week later, having learnt the actual phrase rather than just something I’ve unintentionally made up by adding an Italian ending to a French word. Sometimes this does work, but more not than often, unfortunately.
Having written all of this down, of course, my dirty little secret is out: not only am I a pretentious twat, but a language doofus. Sshh, though – it’s just fra noi, yeh?
Marmite, the food of the gods
After the disastrous meal on Saturday, there was a rather more cheerful outing on Monday, when I met up with Claire, who runs one of the boards that keeps me sane here. She’s resident in Rome, and we had a few hours of window shopping along the Via Corso. I completely failed in my family Christmas shopping mission, but we had a lovely afternoon, and I managed to get some Estee Lauder Idealist, which my skin will thank me for. My pocket won’t – it was €56.18, and that was with a 15% discount. Yikes. (It’s about 30 quid in the UK.)
Late on in the afternoon we ended up in Castroni’s, which is the most fabulous little treasure trove. Upstairs is a floor full of delicious Italian stuff, including clear perspex boxes of sweets set into the floor (display purposes only, but lots of fun and very pretty). However, if you head downstairs, there is a cave full of imported goods from every corner of the globe. This is very unusual in Italy, which is a country that is pretty set in its ways, food-wise. If it’s not produced here, you’re unlikely to get hold of it. There were actual shrieks as I discovered Marmite and Sharwoods Biryani sauce on the shelves. Claire was in similar raptures over Heinz tomato soup. It felt like the end of rationing after the war (I imagine – I’m not that old), and, in a giddy daze, I happily handed over €5.60 for a small (small!) jar of Marmite, which just shows how much I’ve missed it. Ah, expat life, when these are such things as dreams are made of.
On my return to Salento, there was a note under the windscreen of my car, which I had left in the car park at the bus station. Apparently the parking is not, as I had thought, free, and I owed money for 3 days’ parking. Bah. I therefore went into the office to pay. This turned into a hilarious farce of epic proportions. Not only did the 3 guys in the office not speak English, they spoke dialect, so communication was, to say the least, painful. Also, they couldn’t agree how much I should pay. They started off being quite bombastic and telling me off for not paying in advance. However, once they realised that I don’t speak Italian, they softened. There was rapid conversation between them and they seemed to come to an agreement on what the price should be. There was then a phone conversation in which there appeared to be a debate with (I assume) the boss man as to whether I should pay at that rate, given that I am a poor, weak-minded, non-Italian speaking female. Eventually, it was announced to me that I should pay ‘sessante‘. This nearly gave me a heart attack, as I thought they were saying €700. However, I got them to write it down, and it turned out to be a much more reasonable €60. Phew. I waved my bancomat card at them, as I only had €45 in my purse, but they shook their heads gravely and mimed that I should go to the bank and get the cash instead. Considering doing a runner at this point, I thought better of it, given that they had my car numberplate, and me on camera. This is far too small a town to get away with such things.
When I returned, there was a fourth man behind the desk, who took over from the guy who had been dealing with me before. He looked at the time I had arrived, did some calculations, and came to the total of €43. Hooray! But hold on a minute – old guy who had come up with the €60 total wasn’t happy at all. How can it possibly be only €43? She has been here since Friday night at 8pm and it is now 10am on Tuesday. That makes it 4 days! New guy stuck to his guns, however: it’s not 4 days, it’s 86 hours! Friday and Tuesday are not complete days! There then ensued a stand up argument, which involved them storming out of the office and bellowing at each other outside for 5 minutes. Eventually, they returned, and I held my breath to see who had won in the battle of honour. Happily for me, it was new guy. “Quaranta-tre,” he informed me, slightly smugly. Old guy smouldered in the corner. I smiled sweetly, paid and made a run for it.
Not all hearts and (zucchini) flowers
Caecilius est in Colosseo
Three Coins in the Fountain
I’m quite glad that the first I saw of the Pantheon was the back of it. It just made it all the more fascinating. Yes, the front is hugely impressive, with its enormous columns and Roman inscriptions, but the back is just so much more ancient-looking. And the bricks are tiny. It’s not a small building, so it’s quite awe-inspiring to think of just how much hard labour went into building it. None of these enormous marble blocks that you see everywhere else – just teeny, tiny bricks. Strangely, I found the outside of the building much more interesting than the inside. The oculus is fabulous, of course, and throws some beautiful light reflections onto the inside of the dome (made me think of space invaders, a bit), but it’s the outside of the building that really made me gasp. It’s not that it’s that big compared to some of the other buildings in Rome, but it just seems to diminish everything around it. The porch area (can one really call something of that size a porch? – well, I’m going to) is unbelievable. There’s marble! There are giant wooden beams! There’s gilding! There are Roman inscriptions! Over the three days that I spent in Rome, I kept coming back to the Pantheon. I only went inside once, on that first day, but the sight of it from outside never ceased to stun me, every time I walked into the square from a different direction. Just – beautiful. Not in the delicate and artistic way that the Trevi Fountain, for instance, is beautiful, but in a far more intrinsic and ancient sense.
Once I started to look at it in detail, however, that changed. It is beautiful, intricate, and very impressive. My reaction to it, though, in contrast to the Pantheon, was cerebral rather than visceral. I can appreciate it, but I don’t think I could ever love it. It will be far more ancient magic than this that brings me back to Rome in the future. My coins therefore stayed in my pocket, to be saved for more important things: like fiori, carciofi, cioccolatte calde and – er – Marmite. But that’s a story for another day …
(All images by Kate Bailward)